Hello Paw-lite Manners 201 Pet Degree Class!
Here is your continued practice Homework for Week 1 of Paw-lite Manners 201.
The skills we worked on in Week 1 are as follows:
- Sit/Down from different locations (please see the steps and video below)
Goal for this week: Your dog will be able to Sit and Down when cued from your side, from behind you, and from a few feet away from you.
Video: 4 Ways to Add Distance to a Behavior (by Donna Hill)
- Practice with a Barrier
- Practice by placing your dog on a tether and moving away
- Practice on a Bed, Mat, or Platform
- If your dog knows how to Target his or her feet, practice with a Target
NOTE:Get your dog out of the habit of doing the behavior right in front of you. Adding distance, duration, and distractions are all a part of the generalization process. We are teaching your dog to Sit and Down as soon as you ask for it, regardless of where you are, where he/she is, or what your dog is doing at the present moment. We don’t want Sit to mean that your dog travels across a yard or a room to Sit a foot away from you.
Make sure you are moving your own body and cueing the behavior from different angles to vary things and make it more challenging.
- Stand and Maintain (please see the instructions and video below)
Goal for this week: Your dog will be able to Stand and Maintain without moving his or her feet in the position for two seconds.
Video: Dog Training Obedience Stand (by Kikopup)
- In class we practiced teaching your dog to transition from a Sit to a Stand by standing very close to your dog with one leg about a foot in front of your dog. The reason we are standing so close is because when your dog transitions from a Sit to a Stand, we do not want him or her to be able to take multiple steps forward. The Stand cue should be a change in position and it should not include your dog continuing to move toward you. Standing in front of your dog with your right leg a foot in front of your dog, place a treat at your dog’s nose.
- Take one step back with the front leg (the leg directly in front of your dog’s chest and/or feet. The hand holding the treat should remain at your dog’s nose, but also move backward with your leg as you take that step back. As the dog follows the food and transitions into a Stand, mark the behavior and reward. Give your dog the Release cue after reinforcement is given.
- Try this again with multiple treats in your hand. The reason we want you to hold onto multiple treats is because we are going to reinforce your dog multiple times for maintaining the Stand before giving the Release cue. Ideally, your dog will not be able to shift forward or walk forward because your body will be blocking him or her. As the dog raises up into the stand position, begin marking the behavior with “Yes” and delivering a treat to the mouth. Follow up with several additional marks and rewards if your dog’s feet stay planted to the ground. Give the Release cue when you are ready to Release. Try this from a Down position before moving onto the next Step.
- Do this over and over from a Sit or Down position, reinforcing your dog with anywhere from 2-6 treats (i.e., all from your hand), marking before every reward. Follow up with the Release cue. When you notice that your dog has kept his or her feet perfectly still for 8 repetitions in a row, you may now move onto the next step.
- Slow down the rate of reinforcement to see if your dog can remain in a Stand without moving his or her feet. It may be easiest to practice this on an elevated surface like a thick dog bed, a training platform, or a piece of furniture that your dog is allowed to comfortably stand on. If you are doing this on a flat surface and your dog is no longer able to keep his or her feet planted, go back a step and increase your rate of reinforcement. Some dogs and humans get stuck at this point and have a hard time shifting into a Stand while keeping their feet still. For this, I would transition them to an elevated surface to prevent them from being able to walk forward.
- Take a bigger step back with the right leg and see if your dog can still keep his or her feet planted without moving forward. If your dog struggles with this, go back a step and practice remaining close enough to your dog that he or she cannot move forward. Continue to slow down your rate of reinforcement while on this step until you are delivering the treats every 3-5 seconds.
- The hand cue can be anything you want it to be, but it is best to make sure that it doesn’t look like your Hand Target cue so that your dog doesn’t get confused. We recommend transitioning the luring hand cue that you started with to a curved hand with your knuckles facing toward your dog and your pinky being the closest finger to the floor. You will know that your dog fully understands the hand cue when you are able to cue the behavior without an elevated surface and he or she is able to transition from a Down or a Sit into a Stand position with feet planted. Once your dog is able to do this, you can then begin teaching the verbal cue.
- Just like before, when we add the verbal cue, we will rely on the New cue before Old cue rule. “N” comes before “O” in the alphabet. If you are finding that your dog is having a hard time keeping his or feet planted, feel free to go back a step and use an elevated platform. In order to fade out elevated platforms, we recommend slowly transitioning to flatter targets, such as mats. If you have any questions about this, please feel free to ask your Instructor.
- It’s Yer Choice (please see the steps and video below)
Goal for this week: Your dog will be able to ignore a treat or kibble dropped on the floor from 5 inches above and start giving you eye contact before you relinquish a treat. You may cover up the food or treat only once. Please see Step e.).
Advanced Goal: Your dog will be able to ignore cookies dropped on the floor from chest high above and start giving you eye contact before you relinquish a treat. You should not have to cover the food up at any point.
Video: It’s Yer Choice (by Cindy Briggs)
NOTE: Remember, this is a silent game for the most part. We are teaching our dogs with positive reinforcement (i.e., adding something to increase the likelihood of the behavior happening again) and negative punishment (i.e., taking something away to decrease the likelihood of the behavior happening again). You don’t have to say Leave It or No! or snatch your hand away. The only actions you should be doing are picking up a cookie and hand delivering it to your dog’s mouth when he/she shows impulse control or removing access to the treats by covering them up if he/she moves toward them.The following is a recap of the steps you and your dog should already have worked on:
- Food in hand (close hand if your dog goes for the treats)
- Food in container (drop treat back into the container if your dog goes for it when you reach for the treat)
- Food out of container on the floor (put treat back in the container if your dog goes for it on the floor)
- No container; dropping it or moving it around on the floor (pick it up and start over if your dog goes for it)
- Dropping it from higher heights gradually (pick it up and start over if your dog goes for it)
- Tossing it at them (your dog should not be attempting to steal the treats at this point)
- Let’s Go/Loose Leash Walking (LLW) – Adding Distractions (see NOTE and videos below) Goal for this week: Your dog will be able to Loose Leash Walk around a bowl with some kibble with a distance of six feet. Video: It’s Yer Choice: Walking Near Food (by Cindy Briggs) Video: Advanced LOOSE LEASH SKILLS! (Episode 1) (Training Positive) NOTE: You might need a second person to manage the bowl first. Remember to use your Leave It cue if your dog needs to be reminded not to go for the bowl! Start this exercise from far enough away from the bowl so that your dog is not too enticed by it. Over time, move closer to it. To start this process, refer to your It’s Yer Choice video to begin practicing walking around food on the floor. Any time your dog gets stuck staring at the food, you can encourage him or her to move away from it or move past it. If your dog ever moves toward it, then give him or her a penalty walk. Practice makes perfect. As with all LLW, we recommend trying this in every room in your house before working on these exercises outside. If your dog is sneaky, it is best to begin this game with a person that will help you manage the resource. Remember to capture the moments your dog is successfully walking beside you on a loose leash. It is best to teach your dog what you want him or her to do from the start rather than trying to correct a behavior that has become a poor habit. You should be practicing each LLW exercise you set up for your dog 10 times with an 80% success rate before moving on to making things more complex. Try to set aside at least 15 minutes a day (or 3 five minute sessions a day) to practice your homework. We are including your Week 8 Report Card, which consists of all the skills you will be evaluated on in this class. This will help you prepare for graduation.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
See you in class next week!
Happy Training!
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