WEEK 2

• If your dog knows Sit, cue the Sit first. Now that your dog’s rear is on the floor, we only need to focus on the front half of the body
• With a treat in hand, pinch the treat between your thumb and finger, so that the dog can smell and lick the treat but not eat it. Slowly, move the treat straight downward toward the floor, making sure your pup’s head and nose is following the treat. If you move too fast, he or she might not be able to follow.
• When the elbows and chest touch the floor, Mark with “Yes” and give your dog the treat between your fingers. Do this 3-5 times with the treat and then you will be using a fake cookie after that. Make sure you still Mark and reward.
• When your dog begins to anticipate the Down, you can begin teaching a hand cue. Instead of pinching your fingers together, use a flat palm with the palm facing Down. Over time, you will want to cue the Down higher and higher up until you can stand straight up.
• To add a verbal cue, you can start saying “Down” two seconds before the hand cue. Over time, your dog will learn that the verbal cue and hand cue are the same thing.

Every dog requires a little bit of finagling when it comes to Luring a Down. Some dogs do best if you ask for a Sit first, and then start the Luring process from there. Some dogs do best if you Lure the Down while they are in a Stand position. Some dogs do best if you Lure downward from a Sit and in toward the chest (so that their rear doesn’t pop up). Some dogs do best if you Lure downward and away from the body or wiggle the treat back and forth.

NOTE: Remember the rule when adding in new cues: New Cue before Old Cue. “N” comes before “O” in the alphabet.

• The first step is very simple. We are simply marking and rewarding our dogs for not putting tension on the leash. To practice this, leash up your dog and with the leash in your hand, wait for your dog to stop putting tension on the leash. As soon as this happens, Mark and Reward your dog. Do this at least 10 times, rewarding your dog for standing (not sitting or doing a down) and not pulling on the leash. If your dog happens to Sit or Down, take a step to the side and mark and reward as soon as your dog moves toward you.
• We will begin to add more motion. In this step, we will be taking steps to the left and steps to the right. As soon as your dog orients his or her body toward you and moves with you to the left and right, that’s when you will Mark and Reward. Practice this, taking at least 10 steps to the right and 10 steps to the left. If your dog is able to orient to you every single time and move toward you when you take a step, Mark and Reward. Again, only reward when your dog is not putting any tension on the leash.
• In Step 3, we will now take steps forward and steps backward. Your dog should be moving easily with you to the left and right by the point. When you move forward and backward, you should begin to treat your dog on the side you want him or her to walk on. For example, if you want your dog to walk on the left side of you on walks and your dog is moving forward with you on your right side, that is perfectly fine. Deliver the treat to your dog on your left side close to your body so that your dog is forced to go to that side every time he or she is receiving reinforcement. This is called the reinforcement zone and your dog will learn to orient his or her body to this side if you consistently reward this way.
• In this step you will continue to walk forward; however, we will add some left turns and right turns, Marking and Rewarding your dog for walk with you without putting tension on the leash. If your dog is not always staying on the side you want him or her to, that is perfectly fine. Continue to reinforce your dog on the side you want him or her to walk on. When you start making left and right turns, we recommend use your couch, coffee table, and/or kitchen table (i.e., furniture) to help guide your dog on the side you want him or her to walk on.

• Our first session will take place indoors with little to no distractions around us. Have your dog on a lone line. Start by getting your dog’s attention and making yourself really fun and exciting by saying their name enthusiastically in one, elongated word. Once your pup comes near you, mark with “Yes” and throw a treat about a foot past you for them to follow. We like to give consent to eat off the floor with an added “Get It” cue so that your dog knows it’s okay to snatch the cookie from the floor.
• When your dog gets the treat, his or her back should now be to you. You will once again make yourself really exciting so your pup wants to return back to you. As soon as he or she turns and starts coming to you, say his or her name, mark with a “Yes,” and then toss the cookie past you so that you will be behind him or her while eating the treat.NOTE: The long line is helpful in this beginning part because you’ll be able to guide your dog back to you gently to prevent him or her from wandering off or getting distracted. As soon as your dog reaches you, mark that moment with a “Yes” and reward with a treat.
• Repeat Steps 1 and 2 several times in this low distraction environment. With each training session, try to increase the distance in which you throw the treat away from you. This will require your dog to travel farther to get back to you. When you reinforce your dog, deliver the treats to his or her mouth. You may still throw another treat or low value piece of kibble on the floor to serve as a distraction while saying “Get It,” but now the reinforcement should be coming straight from you for performing the behavior instead of on the floor.

• Freedom Harness (available at Amazon.com)
• Balance Harness (available at Amazon or blue-9.com)